Auberge de la Tableau and the Toliara Area

An Amazing Island of Native Wildlife

November, 2022

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As we were getting ready to leave Zombitse Ecolodge, Lova asked if we had water in our room. Apparently our hostess was wondering, as we hadn't come and screamed at her like everyone else does. We told him no, we just did without. He said she told him we were the best guests she'd ever had.

As we headed further south towards Toliara and the coast, we passed Antandroy villages and many tombs. When an Antandroy person dies, a large funeral celebration is held; the deceased's cattle are killed and the meat served to the guests and family. The dead person's house is then burned down, to prevent ancestor spirits from haunting people of the village. The horns/skulls of the zebu killed for the celebration are used to adorn the dead person's tomb.

Toliara Village Antandroy
Antandroy Village

Toliara Tomb Antandroy
Toliara Tomb Antandroy

Antandroy Tombs

Toliara Tomb Antandroy

It is an extremely dry land; too dry to raise rice. We saw people plowing fields to plant casava, yams, millet and maize.

Toliara Zebu Cart
Zebu Cart
Toliara Plowing Field
Plowing Field

Toliara Dust Devil
Toliara Dust Devil

Dust Devil

At an Antandroy village I talked to a teacher who was making balls from the bark of the Katrafay tree. It is used for many things; people referred to it often. The Antandroy also paint their faces with Tabaky to serve as a sunscreen.

Toliara Antandroy Kids
Antandroy Kids
Toliara Antandroy Teacher
Antandroy Teacher

Toliara Antandroy Father Of2
Antandroy Father
Toliara Sunscreen
Antandroy woman with Tabaky Sunscreen

We ran into men hauling roofing material on their cargo bikes, and people returning home on their zebu carts from the market in Toliara.

Toliara Bicycles Xxx
Cargo Bicycles
Toliara Zebu Carts Returning Home
Zebu Carts Returning Home

At Auberge de la Table we enjoyed a shower and watching birds near the pool.

Toliara Arboretum Bird Souimanga Sunbird
Toliara Arboretum Bird Souimanga Sunbird F
Female

Souimanga Sunbird

Toliara Arboretum Bird Olive Bee Eater
Olive Bee Eater
Photo by Dona
Toliara Auberge De La Tableau Bird MGFody
Madagascar Fody
Toliara Arboretum Bird Sakalava Weaver F
Female

Sakalava Weaver

Toliara Arboretum Bird Green Capped Coua
Toliara Arboretum Bird Green Capped Coua
Photo by Dona

Green Capped Coua

Toliara Arboretum Flower South African Desert Rose
South African Desert Rose
Photo by Dona

Dona was tired and wanted to rest, but I took a walk in the adjacent Arboretum d'Antsokay. My guide was Xxx, a virtual fountain of knowledge.


Octopus Tree
Toliara Arboretum Tree Big Spine Octopus Diderea Madagascarensis
Big Spine Octopus
Diderea
Madagascarensis
Toliara Arboretum Tree Compass Alluaudia Montagnaii
Compass Tree
Alluaudia
Montagnaii

Toliara Arboretum Seed Uncarina Stellulifera
Toliara Arboretum Seed Uncarina Stellulifera

Uncarina Stellulifera Seeds

Toliara Arboretum Tree Napoleons Hat
Toliara Arboretum Tree Napoleons Hat

Napoleons Hat

Toliara Arboretum Tree False Baobab Moringa Drouhardii
False Baobab
Moringa Drouhardii
Toliara Arboretum Tree Pachypodium Lamerei Ramosum Flower
Pachypodium Lamerei Ramosum

Toliara Arboretum Gecko Thick Tailed Day
Thick Tailed
Day Gecko
Toliara Arboretum Gecko Xxx House
House Gecko
Xxx
Toliara Arboretum Lizard MGMerrems Swift
Photo by Dona

Merrems Madagascar Swift

Toliara Arboretum Tree Flame Delonix Floribunda
Flame Tree
Delonix Floribunda
Toliara Arboretum Tree Baobab Adansonia Rebrostipa
Baobab
Adansonia Rebrostipa
Toliara Arboretum Tree Golden Euphorbia Plagiantha
Golden Tree
Euphorbia Plagiantha

Toliara Arboretum Tree Xxx False Baobab
Toliara Arboretum Tree Xxx False Baobab

False Baobab

We came across a Mahafaly Sand Snake, which Xxx picked up so I could see it better. I was going to pick it up but wasn't sure if it would be considered ok. Anyway, in the process, it bit him. It wasn't a big deal, as they are not really poisonous. Shortly after we came to a Katrafay tree, known for its healing properties. This is the same tree from whose bark the Antandroy woman was making "medicine balls."

Toliara Arboretum Snake Mahafaly Sand F
Mahafaly Sand Snake (Female)

Toliara Arboretum Healing Snake Bite
Healing a Snake Bite
Toliara Arboretum Tree Katrafay Cedrelopsis Grevei Jeanto
Katrafay healing tree
Cedrelopsis Grevei Jeanto

Toliara Arboretum Bird MGMagpie Robin
Toliara Arboretum Bird MGMagpie Robin
Photo by Dona

Madagascar Magpie Robin

Toliara Arboretum Bird MGBulbul
Madagascar Bulbul
Toliara Arboretum Bird Common Jery
Common Jery

Toliara Arboretum Bird MGKestrel
Photo by Dona

Madagascar Kestrel
Toliara Arboretum Bird Souimanga Sunbird
Photo by Dona

Souimanga Sunbird

Toliara Arboretum Bird MGHoopoe
Madagascar Hoopoe
Toliara Arboretum Bird MGFody
Madagascar Fody

Toliara Arboretum Bug Cicada Xparent Wing
Transparent Wing Cicada

After a restful afternoon and evening walk in the Arboretum, we headed north along the coast the next morning. We got a quick tour of Toliara as we drove through.

Toliara Ocean
Ocean

Toliara
Toliara

Toliara transportation center

Toliara
Toliara

Shops

Toliara
Toliara

Toliara Bicycle Rickshaws
Bicycle Rickshaws
Toliara Rickshaw Repair
Rickshaw Repair

Toliara Bicycle Rickshaws
Toliara Bicycle Rickshaws

Toliara Wheel Repair Shop
Wheel Repair Shop

Toliara
Main Transportation Hub

Madagascar used to be self-sufficient in rice production, but with its exploding population and drought it now has to import rice. We saw lots of freight trucks heading out to deliver bags of rice unloaded in the port of Toliara.

Toliara
Toliara Rice Imports
Rice Imports

Toliara Bicycle Roofing Material
Roofing Material