From Morondava to Antsirabe

and the Antsirabe Artisans

October, 2022

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From Morondava we had to get Sid back to Antananarivo for his flight home, so we headed for Antsirabe a town famous for its artisans. Leaving Morondava we were back in the land of vanished dry forests,

Antsirabe Flower Plumeria
Plumeria
Photo by Dona
Antsirabe Flowering Tree Xxx Pink
Flowering Tree Xxx Pink
Photo by Dona

The Morondava River was still flowing, but the tributaries were all dried up.

Antsirabe Dry Riverbed
Dry Riverbed
Antsirabe River
River

There were no old trees anywhere; we saw only dry shrublands and grasslands. Everything that could be used for charcoal or lumber had been cut. Wherever there was water, valley bottoms were dedicated to rice.

Antsirabe

Antsirabe Hillock
Highlands Hillock
Photo by Dona
Antsirabe Rice Paddies
Rice Paddies

And wherever there were people, there were bicycle rickshaws.

Antsirabe Pedal Rickshaw
Pedal Rickshaw

We stopped in a baren landscape in the middle of nowhere to take a pee, and by the side of the road I found some poles hidden in a bush amongst some termite mounds. Lova said they were probably illegally harvested hardwood, and someone would probably come back later and take them home to make furniture. But while looking around I found this cool red spider.

Antsirabe Hidden Poles
Hidden Poles
Antsirabe Bug Xxx Red
Xxx Red Spider

Antsirabe River
River

Antsirabe Erosion
Erosion
Antsirabe River Mining
River Mining

As we got into the uplands, the terrain got more interesting, but trees were still virtually non-existent.

Antsirabe

Antsirabe
Photo by Sid
Antsirabe
Photo by Sid

And then we were in Antsirabe, a town famous for the number of rickshaws, locally known as pousse-pousses.

Antsirabe

Antsirabe

We stayed at Les Chambres Voyager, where we enjoyed the nice grounds.

Antsirabe Flower Xxx White
Flower Xxx White
Antsirabe Flower Xxx Red
Flower Xxx Red
Antsirabe Flower Xxx Pink
Flower Xxx Pink
Photos by Dona

Antsirabe Flower Xxx Yellow
Flower Xxx Yellow

Photos by Dona

Antsirabe Flower Xxx Yellow
Flower Xxx Yellow
Antsirabe Flower Xxx Red with Thorns
Flower Xxx Red with Thorns

Photos by Dona

Antsirabe Flowering Tree Jacaranda
Flowering Jacaranda
Antsirabe Chameleon Xxx
Chameleon Xxx

Photos by Dona

In the morning we saw a few of the artisans around Antsirabe. Outside a shop where a man was making Serti silk paintings, another man was selling Valihas an 18 stringed instrument where the strings are positioned around a hollow bamboo tube. He said here is one string for each of the tribes in Madagascar. The man could play it really well; it sounded wonderful. He had smaller ones for sale, but they sounded tinny, similar to comparing a Ukeleli to a guitar. I wish I had recorded him playing, as it was much prettier than the things I have heard on-line.

We also visited Miniature Mami, where we watched him make wonderful toy models from bits ot discarded material. The bicycle wheel, complete with spokes, was amazing.

Antsirabe Valiha
Valiha
Antsirabe Miniature Mami
Bicycle Wheel by Miniature Mami

We watched zebu horn being turned into all sorts of useful and decorative things. I was surprised at how easy it was to clean out the interior of the horn after boiling it. If necessary for a particular piece, it could be further shaped in a hand-press while still soft from boiling.

Antsirabe Zebu Horn Boiling
Boiling a Zebu Horn
Antsirabe Zebu Horn Press
Zebu Horn Press

Serti is a type of silk painting where each part of the design is first outlined with a water-based resist. The resist keeps the subsequent dye from bleeding past the border formed by the resist.

Antsirabe Serti Outlining Pattern
Outlining the Pattern
Antsirabe Serti Filling Pattern
Filling in the Pattern

Serti — a form of wax-resist silk dyeing

We purchased some serti artwork and linens, as well as some zebu horn items for the kitchen. We also visited a gem dealer where we bought a small pink Sapphire for Dona. I have mixed feelings about gemstones, particularly when purchased far from the source. In this case it was a local source, and all of the money stayed in Madagascar with local individuals. However, there is still the environmental degradation that comes with the mining, even if it is locals hand-washing gravels. Once home, my friend at Lynde Howe Silverworks set it.

We only had the morning, then we had lunch while waiting for Sid's driver to arrive. We said good-bye to Sid and he headed back to Antananarivo for his flight home. Outside our restaurant, a band was assembling for a parade celebration of some kind.

Antsirabe Band
Band

Antsirabe Sid Caesar Dona Gary Lova
The whole gang
Sid, Caesar, Dona, Gary and Lova