From Beza-Mahafaly to Ambola

A difficult drive, and amazing dugout sailing canoes

November, 2022

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We left Bexa-Mahafaly at 08:53 and headed due west to the small village of Ambola, just north of Tsianampetsoa National Park.

We stopped just outside of Betioka to visit a lady who dealt in decorations for tombs. Lova was looking for something and thought she might have it. Apparently she buys old ones when they are being replaced during an exhumation; her husband carves new ones which she also sells. However, the things she had were in pretty bad shape so we continued on, heading south on national route 10.

Ambola Tree Xxx
Tree Xxx
Ambola Tomb Totems
Tomb with Totems

Ambola Road
National Road 10

In the middle of nowhere we came upon a truck blocking the road. It had some kind of drive train / gear trouble, and wasn't going to be moved anytime soon. So Caesar got out his tools and started cutting back the cactus, sisal, and other stuff so we could get around it.

Ambola Truck Broken Down
Truck Broken Down
Ambola Truck Broken Down Clearing Road
Clearing a Road

While Caesar worked to widen the road, we checked out the local flora.

Ambola Plant Flower Prickly Pear
Ambola Flower Prickly Pear PB111838
Photo by Dona

Prickly Pear

Ambola Flower Xxx Yellow
Flower Xxx Yellow
Photo by Dona
Ambola Flower Xxx Blue
Flower Xxx Blue
Photo by Dona

Ambola Tree Xxx Flower Xxx Yellow
Tree Xxx Flower Xxx Yellow
Photo by Dona
Ambola Flower Xxx White
Flower Xxx White
Photo by Dona

Ambola Flower Xxx Yellow
Flower Xxx Yellow
Photo by Dona
Ambola Flower Xxx Orange
Flower Xxx Orange
Photo by Dona

Ambola Flower Xxx White Orange
Flower Xxx White Orange
Photo by Dona
Ambola Flower Xxx Lavender
Flower Xxx Lavender
Photo by Dona

Ambola Snake Xxx
Snake Xxx
Photo by Dona
Ambola Butterfly Xxx Brown
Butterfly Xxx Brown
Photo by Dona

Ambola Zebu Cart
Zebu Cart

Ambola Zebu Goats
Zebu and Goats

Ambola Truck Broken Down Zebu Cart
Ambola Truck Broken Down Zebu Cart

At first the side passage was barely wide enough for a Zebu cart,

Ambola Truck Broken Down Caesar Passing
but soon it was just wide enough for Caesar.

Ambola Tree Baobab
Baobab
Ambola Road
Road

At 10:00 we turned right at a sign that said "Tsianampetsoa 102km".

Ambola Bird MGBuzzard
Madagascar Buzzard

We went through an area where there were large expanses of termite mounds. There was the small of fire burning everywhere, and not a baobab in sight.

Ambola Road Termite Mounds
Ambola Termite Mounds

Termite Mounds

By 12:00 we were at the beach, and by 12:20 at our lodging at the Ambola Beach Hotel. Not bad for having to cut out a detour; the road was mostly good sand, and Caesar could do about 60 km/hr.

Ambola Sign Hotel
The Hotel Sign

There were some dirt bikers having lunch at the hotel when we arrived; apparently there is a tour company that specializes in dirt bike tours. The riders were suited up in what looked like some pretty uncomfortable outfits given how hot it was.

Ambola Dirt Bikers
Ambola Dirt Bikers

Dirt Bikers

Ambola Beach Boats
Beach Boats
Photo by Dona
Ambola Beach Boats
Beach Boats
Photo by Dona
Ambola Boats
Boats
Photo by Dona

We had a nice airy bungalow, although no power to charge anything.

Ambola Bungalow
Bungalow
Photo by Dona
Ambola Room
Our Room

Ambola Flower Xxx Red
Flower Xxx Red
Photo by Dona
Ambola Flower Xxx Pink
Flower Xxx Pink
Photo by Dona

Ambola is a Vezo fishing village, and there were a lot of dugout canoes pulled up on the beach. They had one ama and rigging to hike out on the upwind side. The mast was stepped in a block with a notch that fits in the bottom of the boat so it (the block, and therefore the mast) doesn't move. They had a long pole for a lateen rig.

Ambola Boat Dug Outrigger
Dugout Outrigger
Ambola Boat Rigging
Ambola Boat Rigging

Boat Rigging

Ambola Ocean Boats
Boats Returning

Ambola Beach Sunset
Beach Sunset

Ambola Boats Sailing
Ambola Boat Sailing
Photo by Dona

Boats Sailing

We spent the rest of the day resting up; the next day we were going to explore Tsianampetsoa National Park.